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Oil Pump | Filter Housing | Oil Cooler | Crank Scraper

The engine oil system for this build is a combination of M10, S14, and aftermarket parts.  The cooling system on the M10 engine is a little marginal on hot summer days and I am concerned that the added displacement and horsepower from this engine will begin to overtax the cooling system.  I could go with a larger aftermarket radiator but have instead decided to use an oil cooler.  I just paid a lot of money a couple years ago to get my original radiator re-cored with a high efficiency core so I'm not eager to replace it right now.

Parts Used

• E21 M10 oil pump
• S14 oil pump chain
• S14 oil pump gear
• S14 oil filter housing
• Setrab 910 oil cooler
• -10AN hose and fittings
• -10AN to M18 x 1.5 adapter (Earl's Performance 9919FFKERL)
• Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scraper

Oil Pump Drive

Due to the size difference in the S14 crankshaft's oil pump gear, the M10 oil pump chain will not fit.  You need to use the S14 oil pump chain and oil pump gear fitted to the M10 oil pump.  It appears that the part number for the S14 and the E21 M10 oil pumps are the same but I have not confirmed this.

The S14 oil pump chain and gear are the same width and pitch as a single row M10 timing chain.  The S14 gear fits on the M10 pump without any difficulty.  Due to the thicker gear, the spacer washer that is used with the M10 oil pump gear is not required.

It took several tries with different oil pump shims to get the chain tension correct.

The E21 M10 oil pump is driven using the S14 oil pump chain and oil pump gear.	The S14 gear is thicker than the M10 gear. No need for the spacer washer used with the M10 oil pump gear.	Another view of the oil pump.

Oil Filter Housing / Thermostat

I'm using an S14 oil filter housing on my engine to provide the required ports for the oil cooler lines.  The S14 housing has the oil cooler lines, oil thermostat, and oil pressure and temperature sender ports.  I think this is the simplest, cleanest way to add an oil cooler to the M10 engine.

S14 oil filter housing showing OEM metric fittings for the oil lines, and the ports for the oil pressure and temperature senders.	Side view of S14 oil filter housing showing oil thermostat location.

Before installing the oil filter housing I disassembled it to clean and inspect the oil thermostat.  Bavarian Autosport sells a kit to replace the cap, circlip, and o-ring on the thermostat.  I tested the thermostat in some boiling water to verify that it worked correctly.

Components of the oil thermostat removed from the housing.	Oil thermostat mechanism. The pin in the thermostat element (left) extends when hot pushing the thermostat element against the return spring.	The thermostat element sits in the end of the housing and acts as a valve to divert the oil flow through the cooler when hot.
Thermostat element at room temperature.	Thermostat after sitting in boiling water. Notice the extended rod.

After inspecting all the components the thermostat was re-assembled using a new seal kit and a little clean engine oil.  Compressing the return spring and installing the circlip takes some effort.

The S14 oil filter housing uses M18 x 1.5 hose fittings for the oil lines that are not easily obtained.  I purchased a pair of adapters to convert to standard -10AN fittings.

Metric to -10AN adapter (blue) next to OEM meteric fitting.	Adapters installed on housing. Now I can use easily available -10AN fittings and hose.

Oil Cooler

The oil cooler I'm using is a Setrab model 910.  It is 16 inches long and about 3 inches tall and 2 inches deep.  It has 10 rows of cooling tubes and is rated for an engine with between 170 and 200 HP.

I have fabricated some brackets to mount the cooler out of some 0.10 inch thick aluminum.  The cooler will mount in front of the radiator using a couple of holes that were originally used for mounting the A/C condenser and fan assembly.

Oil cooler mounting brackets.	Brackets attach on the ends of the cooler.	Oil cooler test fit.

Now I need to figure out the specifics of routing the -10AN oil lines to the cooler.  The hose requires a 4 inch bend radius.  This will be a tight fit for the connection to the cooler on the driver's side.

To get better access to where the hoses will need to go, I removed the front bumper and fascia.  It looks dramatic but really only takes about 10 minutes to do.  The bumper is held on with 4 13mm nuts and the fascia is attached with about 10 screws.

I painted up the brackets and the cooler is now installed.  It looks like I will have room for the hoses to pass through the front sheet metal along side the driver's side bumper shock.

Oil cooler fully installed using the bracket I made.	Rubber washers are installed between the bracket and the cooler to help isolate the cooler from any vibration and stress. Nylon insert lock nuts are used throughout. The nut on the bolt attaching the bracket to the car will be replaced with a lock nut later.	There is room to pass the hoses between the driver's side bumper shock and the radiator.

The -10AN oil hoses are routed through a cut out I made along side the driver's side bumper shock.  The slot is approximately 1 3/4 inches tall and 4 inches wide.  I lined the cut out with some rubber edging material I had on hand.  I re-drilled the hole for the grommet that was removed when the cut out was added.

Lines for cut out marked on front sheet metal.	Cut out lined with edging and new hole for wire grommet.	Approximate routing of the oil lines. They will be secured to the bumper shock in the final install to keep them from moving too much.
Oil lines attached to oil cooler.	Oil lines attached to the oil filter housing. Notice the oil temperature and pressure senders are also installed. It gets pretty cramped around the housing.

Crank Scraper

Late into the engine build I decided to add a crank scraper from Ishihara-Johnson.  This is a dual scraper with trap doors for one way oil flow back into the pan from the upper portion of the block.

Test fitting the crank scraper. A fair amount of material needed to be trimmed from all edges. You can see the trap doors on the scraper plate.	Another view of the scraper during test fitting.	Crank scraper final install. The oil pump has been replaced. I used two oil pan gaskets, one on each side of the scraper.